Tour du Mont Blanc current conditions

Over the past week we have been out looking at the trail conditions in readiness for the arrival of our first clients who arrive next weekend.

There have been many reports of the bumper snowfall in the Alps last winter & that is true and we have received lots of enquires & questions about this however the current conditions are not unusual for early June. In 2013 & 2016 we had equally challenging conditions and 2018 looks to be similar therefore if you are trekking in early season you need to be prepared, equipped and know your limitations.

We have had a warm spring and the situation is improving on a daily basis however the snow above 2000m especially on shaded & north facing slopes will take some weeks to disappear.

The main problem areas:

·       Contamines to Chapieux & Ville des Glaciers via the Col du Bonhomme & the Col de la Croix Bonhomme & Col des Fours if going to Ville des Glaciers.

·       Chapieux & Ville des Glaciers to Courmayeur via the Col de Seigne

·       Refuge Bonatti to La Fouly via the Grand Col Ferret

·       Champex to Trient via the Fenetre d’Arpette

For your own safety please take notice of any advice available, be aware of the additional challenges, know your limitations and where the route is not advisable and change your plans accordingly.

Snow on high ground this can make the route difficult and dangerous in places. A great deal of care needs to be taken when moving on old snow, depending on the weather & temperature this can be frozen solid or slush and without crampons can be impossible to cross without slipping. Ascending on snow can be often feel easy by kicking in steps & making good firm footholds however the main problems occur when traversing steep sided slops, gullies and in descent. Also great car needs to be taken when crossing snow covered streams in case of snow collapse. It is essential that you make a risk assessment before crossing snow, look below and ask yourself if you slipped how far would you slide & fall? Could a slip or fall cause injury? If in doubt retreat back and descend to the safety of the valley.

Tour du Mont Blanc in brief (if doing the westerly, easterly or ‘Best of’ refer to the relevant days)

Day 1: Chamonix to Les Houches: Ok if a lower route is taken, the Col de Brevent is not advisable. 

Day 2: Les Houches to Contamines: Passable via the col du Tricot however care must be taken. On the Les Houches side of the Col du Tricot there is a fair amount of uneven snow, which makes progress slow. On the descent to the Chalets du Miage although nearly snow free the path has been scoured away by winter snow and great care needs to be taken as the terrain is steep. The route via Chapel is snow free and would be an easier trouble free option.

Day 3: Contamines to Chapieux or Ville des Glaciers: A great deal of snow above 2000m, this section is not advisable without having the correct equipment with you (see below). The traverse between the Col du Bonhomme & the Col du la Croix du Bonhomme can be very difficult with snow as a slip or fall here could cause serious injury. If staying at the Refuge Mottets it is advisable to follow the route card provided to Chapieux & take the road to Ville de Glaciers rather than go over the Col du Fours which is very steep in descent with snow.

Day 4: Chapieux or Ville des Glaciers to Courmayeur: A great deal of snow above 2000m, this section is not advisable without having the correct equipment with you (see below). We advise you take the bus or a taxi from La Visaille to Courmayeur as the route via the Mont Faurvre spur can be dangerous with this amount of snow. The regular bus service doesn’t run until July therefore the Allo bus is bookable on +39 0165 1854653 more information can be found here: http://www.savda.it/en/55/alla-bus-courmayeur/ or by taxi, Mont Blanc Shuttle +39 347-4213679, TAXI Courmayeur di Granato +39 0165 841821. These will need to be reserved before you leave Contamines as phone signal is not available until after the Col du Seigne.

Day 5: Courmayeur to Refuge Bonatti: ok via Refuge Bertone and the balcony route, do not take the higher options outlined in the guide-book. Care needs to be taken when traversing the sections of snow.

Day 6: Refuge Bonatti to La Fouly: A great deal of snow above 2000m, we advise to descend from the Refuge Bonatti to the Val Ferret and walk up the road to Arnuva then take the 4x4 track to refuge Elena do not attempt to take the TMB route up the gully, the bridge over the gully has not been re-instated as yet and crossing the snow bridge will be dangerous. This section is not advisable without having the correct equipment with you (see below). 

Day 7: La Fouly to Champex: ok no problems, the route is snow free.

Day 8: Champex to Trient: ok via the Bovine route care needs to be taken when traversing the sections of snow.

The variant via the Fenetre d’Arpette is not passable, do not attempt to go this way as it is very steep at the col at either side, due to the amount of snow a slip or fall here could cause serious injury.

Day 9: Trient to Argentiere: There is still a significant amount of snow on the way up to Col du Balme care needs to be taken crossing the snow patches. Go direct to the Col from Trient rather than via Tseppes & Catogne. Little snow on the Chamonix side of the Col and the rest of the route is trouble free. Care needs to be taken when traversing the sections of snow.

Day 10: Argentiere to Chamonix: The Aiguille Rouges nature reserve still has a lot of snow, Lac Blanc is completely covered with snow and remains frozen. Therefore we advise to remain on the lower balcony to Flegere and do not ascend to Lac Cheserys and Lac Blanc, the route from Flegere to Brevent has no problems and is relatively snow free.

Essential kit:

·       All kit outlined on our kit list not forgetting good waterproof boots (not trainers or trail shoes), gloves, warm hat, warm layers, waterproof outer layers, sun cream & sunglasses to protect against snow glare.

·       Light weight crampons or MICROspikes & walking poles x 2 per person to aid balance, lightweight walking crampons can be hired locally in Chamonix, Snell sports is a good hire shop on the main street opposite the Maison de la Presse. Micro spikes (see picture) can be purchased from many of the shops in Chamonix.

·       Gaiters to keep the snow out of your boots when walking through snow.

Important to remember

Walking on snow can be very tiring and time consuming, you will need a good level of fitness in order to be able to cope with this additional challenge. You will also need to allow more time each day to get to your destination.

Snow and bad weather can make navigation difficult as you cannot see the designated path and route markets and signage will be covered with snow although you will find tracks in the snow. Good navigational skills are essential, the ability to read a map, use a compass and altimeter are a pre-requisite of this self-guided trek.

Due to the current conditions information given on the route cards may be inappropriate additional route notes will be given to supplement and additional information you may have received. You need good mountain sense and the ability to make your own decisions, it is your responsibility to select alternative routes from the information you have at hand (map, guidebook & route & safety cards etc).

Please contact us for further information and additional information on current conditions are available on the AuTourDuMontBlanc website: http://www.autourdumontblanc.com/en/index.cfm/general-conditions.html

Traverse of the Gran Paradiso guided trek 2015

In 2014 we decided to look for an alternative multi day trek in our local area that would provide challenging progression and something a little different from the Tour du Mont Blanc and Walkers Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt. We didn't have to look far and the Alta Via 2 Traverse of the Gran Paradiso made for a fantastic trek. After recceing the trek during the summer of 2014 we decided to offer this in 2015 as a guided trek and self-guided.

As we knew that the trek was rigorous trek with our guided option we decided to offer this to previous clients whom we knew would be capable of the difficult and challenging terrain.

So on August 11^th 2015 we met in Chamonix and provided a transfer through to Courmayeur for the group. We enjoyed a trek briefing over dinner and at 9am we were on our way by minibus transfer to the start of the trek in Champorcher at the far end of the Aosta valley.

Day 1: The first day takes you from the remote village of Champorcher up and over the Fentre de Champorcher 2828m to the Refuge Peradza. We had such a friendly welcome.... free shoulder & neck massages whilst we had our recovery beer! And delicious food and wine later in the evening.

Day 2: A long day ahead starting with a decent from the refuge to Lillaz and then along the valley bottom to Cogne. Lunch stop of panini and cappuccino before making our way to Vanotey & then a fairly steep ascent to Refuge Vittoria Sella at 2584m.

Day 3: Promised to be interesting as we had had snow overnight! We had to ascend over the Col Lauson, which is the highest & most delicate Col on the trek at 3299m, which is high by any alpine trekking standards. The group were fit and coped well with the terrain after a short sharp 800m ascent we were up and over and making our long descent to Eaux Rousses in the Valsavarenche valley.

Day 4: With the weather improving we made our way initially through larch woodland to the Alpage of Orvieille a perfect location for a rest stop whilst we watched the Marmots playing. It never ceases to amaze me just how much wildlife you see in the Gran Paradiso in comparison to other alpine areas, such abundance of Marmots, Chamois & Ibex and because the area is so quiet & devoid of human beings they don't seem to mind you being around. From here we made our way steeply at times to the Col Entrelor 3007m a tricky descent down into our next valley & to the beautiful village of Rhemes Notre Dame.

Day 5: Our Col for the day was the foreboding Col Fenetre 2840m... The group had seen it the day before from the descent of the Col Entrelor. The final ascent to the Col Fenetre is so very steep as the path works its way up into such a tight gully looks impossible from a distance. Once into the gully it's fine and the zigzag path is good, progress is made quickly due to the gradient, which I would suspect is perhaps 50% at times. As often happens if one side of the Col is steep and narley the other is more serene and the descent from Col is lovely & so picturesque winding down past the refuge L’Epee, which provides a great rest stop with delicious food & coffee. Traversing for a while with fabulous views of the Valgrisenche valley before descending into the larch woodland and down to our accommodation for the night at Bonne.

Day 6: Starts easily as we made our way through the Valgrisenche valley bottom to the village of Planval & the last chance for a cappuccino before our ascent of the Col Crosatie 2838m. This is my favorite Col of the trek the terrain is truly wild and remote as the views from the top are just majestic looking out to Mont Blanc, the big Swiss 4000m peaks and back over the Grivola & the Gran Paradiso.... This is a place to sit a while and reflect. The descent is initially tricky so care needs to be taken for the first 30 mins or so you then find yourself dropping into the most beautiful & remote valleys and down to the amazing little refuges of the Dortois Paradis in the Vallon du Fond. This is an un-manned refuge that has catering facilities but with prior arrangement the owner will pick you up in his 4x4 and take to his Auberge for an amazing dinner with delicious local food & wine. This truly was an evening to remember & the group loved every minute.

Day 7: We retraced our steps through the woods to the ruined refuge, from here we followed the trail to the Alto Pass or Haute Pass, this high valley is so remote and the ascent to the Col is long and challenging. Amazing views looking back to our Col from the day before but it wasn't a place to linger as the wind chill at the Col forced us to descend as quickly as possible to find shelter in the Refuge Defeyes... More Cappuccino & the biggest blueberry tart you ever could imagine!!! From here we made our long descent to La Thuille, it might be long but it certainly takes in some beautiful terrain with stunning views. La Thuile ski resort in the winter is a great little town the biggest we have seen since leaving Courmayeur and it provided us with a lovely hotel, great food and an amazing pack lunch the following day from the local deli.

Day 8: And our final day and back to the bosom of Mont Blanc we headed up out of La Thuile into the remote and beautiful Youla Valley to the Col d’Arp and then a fabulous traverse to the Col Youla with truly stunning views of Mont Blanc from the Italian side. Care needs to be taken initially on the descent as the ground is steep and very loose. The trail leads you onto the Tour du Mont Blanc route and you make your way past the refuge Maison Vielle to Col Checrouit and steeply down through the trees to Dolonne and onto Courmayeur. A warm welcome from our lovely hotel owners at the Hotel Crampon and a few celebratory bottles of Procecco were in order!

If you are into alpine trekking and are looking for a new challenge try this... It's stunningly remote and beautiful and to top it all its in Italy which means a warm welcome, lovely people and delicious food and drink.

We also added an option for clients to summit the Gran Paradiso 4060m at the end of the trek. We acquired the services of two UK high mountain guides Stuart McDonald and John Cune, who got us up to the summit safely and successfully.

We are running a guided Gran Paradiso trek again in 2016 and also organize self guided options. For more information on any aspect of the Gran Paradiso see our website: http://www.montblanctreks.com or contact sara@montblanctreks.com

Col Entrelor

Col Fenetre

Rhemes Notre Dame

Dortois Paradis

Above La Thuile

View from the Col Youla

Alpine weather

As an International Mountain Leader and being responsible for guiding groups in the Alps during the summer and winter understanding weather is a critical factor of the job, whether it be from a client safety point of view or to just maximise enjoyment during the trek.

Situated in the centre of Europe the European Alps deflect large-scale weather systems resulting in rapidly changing weather patterns.

Typically in summer the weather warm and hot in the valleys and cooler high up, the build up of heat in the valleys during the day often creates cumulous cloud build up by late afternoon with the risk of thunderstorms. When in the mountains in summer the policy is to be up and out early and be at your destination by the time the weather breaks.

This typical pattern is caused by anabatic winds during the day: Anabatic winds are valley breezes caused by temperature build up pushing warm air up the valleys onto the mountains. These warm breezes are the cause of the cumulus cloud growth and potential thunderstorm risk.

In the evening the situation reverses and Katabatic winds take affect. Kanabatic winds are caused when cooler air sinks pushing down into the valleys creating a downward breeze.

In winter common high-pressure can be dominant, although the temperatures are cold, the air is cooler in the valleys due to lack of sun penetration within the steep sided valleys. As the cold moist air sinks cloud builds up resulting in cloud inversions (low cloud in valley bottom, blue skies high up).

The Foehn wind is a common factor in the Alps although it occurs throughout the year it has more detrimental affect in winter causing shifting of snow, increase in temperature creating unstable snow conditions. Low pressure pushes up the windward side of a mountain range, then warmed by compression as the system moves over the top of the range and finally dumped over the leeward slopes creating a strong warm wind that can last for a number of days. Temperature can increase by as much as 15 to 20 degrees.

Other notable weather signs are the Lenticular clouds, for example: ‘le chapeau de Mont Blanc’ or the ‘hat of Mont Blanc’. Unique to high mountains they are created by high altitude winds (although they look static in appearance) being forced over the obstacle. They can be a weather predictor indicating the onset of bad weather or the start of the foehn wind.